Last Saturday, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers held the preview for the Vintage Couture and Accessories Auction in Chicago.  The sun was shining and I really wanted to get at the border garden in my courtyard, but instead, I slipped on my jeans, my Target t-shirt, and my new sandals and headed to the the auction house with Maija. I forgot the quarters, so I was delighted when we were met with free parking–and racks of vintage clothing, shelves of handbags and cases full of jewelry! Awesome!

If you’ve never been to a vintage clothing auction, find a way to tick that off of your list. Students and fans of vintage clothing will undoubtedly find that it’s time well spent, even if it means neglecting your garden in order to go to the preview the day before the auction starts. (Black and white auction photo above from Life archives, 1951,  Lamarr auction.)

Nearly everything that I chose sight unseen (here, here and here) was in very good condition, but I can’t say the same about quite a few of the lots in the auction.  That’s why it’s imperative to go to the preview. Hindman insists that no one bid on anything that they haven’t inspected.  All sales are final.

This Beene was one of my preview picks. In real-life?  The dress is matronly and not nearly as cutie-pie as I expected it to be. Still, $122 for this ’60s Geoffrey Beene is a fair deal for the mature woman.

I was surprised at some of the low-ball prices on things that were great. Like this unreal thing–it’s a fur trimmed suit by Traina-Norell.

You can’t see much in the photo, but this is one perfect suit. It sold for $274.50. (You do know you have to add about 33% buyer’s premium plus tax, right?) That’s a deal any day of the week. And, it has provenance. It’s from the collection of Mrs. Augusta Berin (wife & muse of Harvey Berin.)

A bit of background on Mrs. Augusta Berin from the catalogue:

From the start, she was an integral part of her husband’s business by helping raise the initial $1500 to open up the shop in 1923 on Madison Avenue and then hiring Karen Stark, the creative designer for the company. Best known for its feminine styles, the company would reach outstanding successes with her help including dressing three first ladies, most famously Pat Nixon’s inaugural gown in 1969. Well known and active in New York society, Augusta Berin could be seen wearing and silently promoting her husband’s dresses at The 21 Club, The Stork Club, El Morocco, The Colony, The Ritz in Paris or at Buckingham Palace with regal style. This collection tells the story of a beautiful, elegant, tasteful, and purposeful woman.

In addition to Berin’s lovely, tasteful collection, the auction featured a range of collectible and wearable designer pieces as well as bags and costume/designer jewels.

An auction like this says a lot about the taste level of the bidders. What’s more, it gives one a sense of the range of desirability of certain designers. How is it that I forgot that Versace’s buckled-up, bondage,  leather gowns for Genny were THE LAST word? Apparently, they still are the last word. This one went for $2684. (FYI: hammer price was $2200, just so you know that the premium is, indeed, hefty as are the state taxes on this stuff.)

I know. Let’s play a little game. It’s apples to oranges, but certainly more fun to contemplate than “How would you rather die? Fire or Drowning?”
Which would you rather have?

This gorgeous New Look, black faille Falkenstein princess coat with intricate basket-weave details on cuffs and pockets for $488. Or, drop about a hundred bucks more and get a fabulously chic (licensed) 80s slinky rayon Geoffrey Beene dress with striped waist detail for $579.50:


 

poll by twiigs.com

How about these two? An Edwardian wool coat with incredible passamenterie and soutache, fully lined in quite good condition for $366? Or, an exquisite Hattie Carnegie ballgown with beading from the 50s with some stains on skirt for the same money?

poll by twiigs.com

This jersey Jean Muir from the ’70s looks incredibly contemporary. It sold for $305. Same money–how about this ’80s pink and black evening gown from Victor Costa?

poll by twiigs.com

People are willing to pay a fair amount of money for exaggerated and ostentatious things.  A Sonia Rykiel ostrich feather coat sold for more than $3K.  That’s nothing to sneeze at, or is it? I’ve discovered that I seem to have feather allergies!

When you really want to make a statement, go ahead and get all Dietrich’d-up and wear a tuxedo. Better still, how about a Moschino tux jacket with insane four-foot-long tails attached to your wrists?  In this jacket every gesture is a dramatic affair that’s bound to be remembered. Flag a cab wearing this and you’ll either be ignored or end up in a limo on your way to see Cats. The elongated tails actually attach to the wrists with little chains, so you’re not stepping on them. Genius! This wacky jacky sold for just under a grand.

We want whoever wears these Chanel sunglasses to have on a white nylon tracksuit with gold zipper. I’m not sure if we care if a man or a woman wears them. I must have been lost in the Palm Beach of my mind  when the hammer went down on these because I didn’t realize the sunglasses sold for over eight-hundred and fifty bones.

A sparkle-riffic Gianfranco Ferre brocade suit yields $1342. I have to wonder about the winning bidder and ask myself a a couple of questions. First, when’s the Wendy and Lisa concert starting? Then, where’s the bathroom? I think I just threw-up in my mouth a little bit. I’m just kidding. Sort of. I lived that whole Prince and The Revolution period. I get it, but I ain’t buyin’ it.  Then again, it’s certainly extreme and exuberant and excellently crafted so there you go. I’ll take two, please.

Remember this bag? It’s the Kieslestein-Cord bag I loved in my preview.  Because I was carrying my K-C bag, Maija wondered if I ever thought of selling it.  I had no idea. Apparently, a price upwards of $350 is a fairly typical finish for a Kieselstein-Cord bag.  Here’s a non-auction house, quickie photo of mine. I have a feeling it’s missing a chain, but I can’t be sure. I love it.  The wicker and ostrich bag above went for $600. I love it, too.

I could probably show you a hundred more things and talk about them here, but my garden is calling me.

Listen. One last thing–if you’re worried about feeling intimidated by an auction like this, don’t be. Go with someone you know. Maija and I were there with Rose, who wore head-to-toe bold ’60s garb with a wacky hat. It’s entirely possible someone might look at you in your commoner Tarjay designer clothing like you’re a booger that just got flicked on their cashmere twin set. Never fear. You look marvelous, darling.

Besides, I think it’s good to keep in mind something that the auctioneer said to me when I put down my paddle as the bidding on something went beyond my meager means:

“Don’t look so scared. It’s only money.”